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‘Natural’ Means Nothing: The Revolt Against Greenwashing in Wine

Jesse Katz, founder of Aperture Cellars and Devil Proof Vineyards, has made some of the most acclaimed wines in California—and he’s doing it by thinking beyond sustainability. A record-breaking winemaker with 100-point bottles and a NASA-caliber toolkit, Katz makes the case for regenerative viticulture as both ecological stewardship and precision craft. In this Q&A, he breaks down the marketing myths around “natural” wine, how climate change has reshaped his approach, and why great winemaking starts—and ends—with the soil.

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